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Ulsan: The Whale and Onggi Capital of Korea

Kim-Yu-Jin, University of Ulsan

Imagine a bright warm sunshine day, a cool breeze blowing through your hair, a wide open sea with leaping whales welcoming you, and breathtaking traditions everywhere. You might think that there could never be a place like this, but this place does exist, and it is the very city in which I live. Yes, apart from mountains, beaches, and a thriving industrial sector, Ulsan has much more to offer, and is a great city that you should come visit for at least two additional reasons.

First, it is such a great place to learn more about whales. Whales only show up in places where there is an abundance of krill for them to eat, and where the ocean temperature is around 5℃-10℃, making Ulsan the perfect spot for these marine mammals. Since ancient times, people were helped by whales and now Ulsan is working together as a city to protect whales from becoming extinct. In the summer, the city hosts its annual Whale Festival to promote their protection, and offers dolphin watching cruise tours. There is a whale museum for people who would like to know more about them and you can even buy some cute dolphin shaped breads over there. So, if you want to see them with your own eyes, you should definitely come to Ulsan.

Secondly, should you decide to visit Ulsan, you will get to know more about Korea’s special pot, called an Onggi. Onggi is a special kind of pottery which ancient people used to store food, and is uniquely Korean. What is special about Onggi is that they have tiny holes that help with ventilation and keeping food fresh. Ulsan is famous for them because about 50% of Onggi that we use today were made in Ulsan. If you visit Ulsan, you will be able to see the world’s biggest Onggi, and the Onggi museum and potters who continue to make Onggi pots to this day.

As you can see, Ulsan has a lot to offer visitors, particularly with regards to marine mammals and ancient Onggi pots. Besides these two reasons, there are lots of other gems and reasons why you should visit my hometown someday. Should you choose to do so, I guarantee that you that you will not be disappointed.

Solo Trip to Seoul and Overnight Stay in a Korean Bathhouse

Tran Thi van Chinh
University of Ulsan

I recently had the chance to attend a co-worker’s wedding in Incheon, Korea. Wanting to make the most of my very first solo trip abroad, I decided to spend one night at a reasonably-priced Korean Bathhouse called a jjimjilbang. Not only was I able to sleep over and have a luxurious bath in a very interesting and new way, but it turned out to be one of the most fascinating experiences of my life.
This lovely little jjimjilbang named “Chinjeong Sup Sauna” was located near Hongdae in Seoul. After paying a small entrance fee and locking my shoes into an unoccupied drawer, I received a bathrobe, two bath towels, and a key for my wardrobe from a woman and from that moment, things became really interesting. Because the wardrobes were opposite the door of the bath area and we were not allowed to wear clothes whilst having a shower, it was my very first time seeing so many people in their birthday suits. It was so awkward for me at first that I did not dare to raise my head. It is still funny looking back now how hard I tried to not see others and how I just tried to focus on finding my wardrobe.
After putting my belongings into the wardrobe, I could not wait to get inside the hot-steamy area. The bath area was not enormous but big enough for us to truly relax. Basically, there were four parts inside: an oil massage area, a shower area, hot water pools, and a sauna room. After taking a shower, I spent around fifteen minutes in the sauna room. It was steaming hot inside but once I left and soaked myself in the hot water pool, I felt extremely refreshed. The sauna was such an awesome thing for me personally, because my face became silky smooth and glowed for days afterwards.
All these things, from taking a hot water shower and spending time in the sauna to soaking in the heated pool and then having a big bottle of cool sikhye, a Korean rice-punch drink, made me feel on top of the world. I must say it was heaven to me. Staying overnight in a jjimjilbang was undoubtedly one of the best experiences I have ever had and I highly recommend it should you ever find yourself in Korea.

Okunojima: Rabbits’ Paradise

Rikuya Takatani
University of Shimane

Hiroshima has an island called Okunojima. There are many rabbits on this island. Many tourists come to see the rabbits. But this island has a sad past.

As I got off the passenger boat and approached the pier, the white and brown “MofMof” quickly crossed my line of sight. Rabbits on the road, rabbits on the plaza, rabbits on the slope. Rabbits live everywhere on this small island, about 4 km around. The island had a former army poison gas plant from 1929 until the end of the war. After being processed and taken over by the US military, it was finally returned to Japan after 57 years. After that, the National Holiday Village opened in 1983, and it was reborn as a resort area. Why are there rabbits on this island? As I walk on the island, I notice there are holes in and around here and there. All the rabbits are wild rabbits. It is an “alien species”. Although there is a theory that they were brought in for poison gas experiments and survived, there is also a theory that eight animals were released by primary school children from off the island in 1971 and they have been breeding ever since.

There are natural enemies of baby rabbits such as crows, owls, and snakes on the island. Looking for the appearance of rabbits, many tourists, including foreigners, are coming now. However, most of them do not know the history of Okunojima. That is a problem of Okunojima. Go through the tunnel at the 2nd pier on the right and there are the remains of a power plant. It supplied heavy fuel oil at the time of poison gas production and was also used for manufacturing balloon bombs. Although you cannot enter,the unique decaying atmosphere is a masterpiece even from the outside. Inside the island there are also the ruins of a fort, citadel, Nagaura Poison Storehouse, gunpowder storehouse, as well as a poison gas museum where you can learn the history of poison gas production.

Some of the tourists coming to Okuno Island seek out the history of this poison gas production. However, families with young people and children do not visit these places so much, but maybe these people

should also learn about the dark history.

Yakushima Trekking

Naoki Shimada
University of Shiman

Last summer, I went to Yakushima with my friend to see Jomonsugi, a famous cypress tree, and nature. We needed a long time to reach Jomonsugi. The round trip hike takes about 8 hours. We were so tired. But this trekking course was so interesting because we could feel great nature. This experience is an important memory for me.

Yakushima is a World Heritage Site. This island was the inspriation for the movie Mononokehime of Studio Ghibli. The island has a lot of nature. My friend and I went there by scooter. It took about 27 hours from Hamada to Kagoshima. It took about 5 hours from Kagoshima to Yakushima by ship. Yakushima’s local food is flying fish. We could see the fish from the ship. We could eat flying fish cuisine. I heard that sea turtles lay eggs on this island, but I did not observe that.

After we arrived at Yakushima, we went toward Siratani Unsuikyo. It was sunny day, so it was easy to walk, and our motivation was enhanced. There are a lot of big cypresses and mosses. I was able to take many beautiful pictures.

The next day, we went toward Jomonsugi. We got up early to take a bus bound for the trailhead. It was cloudy. But a lot of people were trekking on this road. The trekking road is long. It is 20 kilometers there and back. It goes over a truck road, a small river, and rocks, so this road is difficult.

I will introduce cautionary points of Yakushima trekking. First you should use trekking shoes because these shoes are different from normal shoes. Your feet will be protected which will help you walk. Second, you should prepare to respond to changes in temperature and climate. The mountain weather is changeable. Third, if you are worried even a bit, you should take portable toilet because there are few toilets on the trekking road. Forth you should stay hydrated. There is very clean water in Yakushima’s river, so you can drink the water.

It started raining during our trek. We reached Jomonsugi in 4 hours. I felt a great sense of achievement. Jomonsugi is magnificent.

While it is seen as the biggest tree in Yakushima, there are a lot of other big and interesting trees. For example, Kaminarionzisugi, Kugurisugi, Wilsonkabu, and so on. I hear that bigger trees can be found, so we looked for them in the mountains.

I had a lot of good experiences and gained new knowledge on this trip. I appreciate

Yakushima and my friend.

Mysterious Floating Shrine

By Anna Nii, University of Shimane

Have you ever been to Itsukushima Shrine in Miyajima? It is one of the world heritage sites and is a very famous place. It is also known as a sea shrine.

November seems to be the best time to see the autumn leaves in Miyajima. I wanted to see the autumn leaves based on this advice. Also, I wanted to see the Otorii of Itsukushima Shrine. So, I went on a trip there on 24th November 2018. To Itsukushima Shrine, we can go by ferry from Miyajimaguchi Station. A lot of tourists visit there every day. And it is also a beautiful place loved by many people. I felt that is a very nice place. So, I will tell you about the charm of Itsukushima Shrine in Miyajima.

Itsukushima Shrine was built in 593 during the Heian period. After that, in 1168, Taira no Kiyomori built the main shrine and it became the current shrine. Afterwards the Mori family and Asano family kept the shrine. The red paint is very beautiful, and the appearance conveys the atmosphere of the Heian period. The mysterious appearance was evaluated, and it was registered as a World Heritage site in 1996.

The greatest charm of Itsukushima Shrine is the Otorii which seems to float in the sea. The red Otorii is 16m high and weighs about 60 tons. The feet of the pillars are not buried in the ocean floor, but stand alone with their own weight. The main pillar was made out of a camphor tree and is about 600 years old.

Also, because the Otorii is built in a place full of tides, at low tide you can walk up to it. The reason why it was built in a place where the tide comes in and out is to catch the entire Miyajima as a god and to cut the wood, shave of the soil so as not to hurt the “the object of worship”.

It is also attractive to have different ways of enjoying by changing the atmosphere due to autumn leaves, snow, lighting up at night.

Besides, there are many shops in Miyajima, and you can eat oysters, Momiji-manju and mackerel rice bowls which are special products of Hiroshima. You can also buy souvenirs. Everything is very tasty. But there are wild deer everywhere, so please be careful about your food.

There are many other good points. Please try visiting. And please see it with your own eyes.

Rise of Study Tribes in Korean Cafes

An Ju Hui, University of Ulsan

The phrase Ca-gong-jok is a newly-termed word that is an abbreviation of Korean words meaning “study tribe in a café”, and refers to those people who study for long periods of time in one café setting. In Korea, the number of Ca-gong-jok is increasing steadily and this phenomenon makes for endless debates.

The affirmative side states that the cost of the beverage fee includes the right to enjoy the relaxed ambience of the cafe. In fact, according to some research, white noise improves work efficiency. Sounds such as background music or humming or the sound of friendly conversation helps one to concentrate more deeply. Therefore, the positive opinion of Ca-gong-jok is somewhat based on scientific grounds. Moreover, when people have to work in groups, it is convenient to gather in a cafe for a meeting, since people cannot talk one another in a library. Other research results show that studying through discussion with others is more effective than just studying by oneself, and that a cafe where people can study with other people in a cozy atmosphere may just be the best place to learn.

In contrast, most of the opponents are owners of café’s. The more Ca-gong-jok who study in their cafes, the fewer customers they are able to serve. Once a Ca-gong-jok sit at a table, they usually spend at least 2-3 hours studying. Although they purchase a cup of coffee, it could not exceed the sales to other customers. Furthermore, they use electricity, Wi-Fi, water resources and so forth. Even if it seems small, the total costs could place a heavy burden on owners. In addition, some Ca-gong-jok occasionally glare at other customers in order to make them keep quite. So even if the one of the purposes of going to cafe was to talk or chat with friends, these kinds of stares would put an end to it, and could lead to a decline of customers. It is no wonder why so many owners are feeling apprehensive.

All in all, Ca-gong-jok deserve to be treated the same as any other customers. In my opinion, the atmosphere of café spaces let people feel unconventional and refreshed and that perhaps leads to increased concentration. Provided that these new tribes comprehend the difficulties faced by owners and moderate their behavior, they might just become a new culture of the cafe industry globally.

School Festival – Brass Band Performance–

By Motoki Yamada

The University of Shimane School Festival was held on October 8th. Our brass band played in the cafeteria.

The school festival is held on two days of the year. However, this year it was held on one day due to a typhoon. So, the performance of the brass band changed a little. We invite Hamada Commercial High School and Hamadian Brass as guests every year. But, unfortunately this year we could not because the schedule shifted. Also, we could not use the auditorium. So, the performance was held in the cafeteria.

We practiced from the end of August. The songs were difficult but everyone practiced. So, we were able to do a good performance with everyone.

I started brass band in my second year in high school. When I was in high school I was able to attend the Chugoku Competition. I feel good when I’m playing in the brass band. So, I can do my best. I will try hard in future.

I learned how to respond to unexpected situations when I had to deal with the typhoon disrupting our scheduled performance. I would like to make use of this experience in the future.

What Can Cure Homesickness?

By Miho Eguchi, Iwami Chisuikan High School

Recently, the Japanese government is moving toward accepting more foreign workers. According to newspaper reports, the working population of Japan is shrinking. That is why foreign workers are needed. What worries me is that this way of thinking lacks the perspective of foreign workers’ happiness. Does the Japanese government care about the welfare of the new working population?

I understand how hard it is to live in a foreign country. Two years ago, I lived in the United States with my family for about a year. Before moving there, I thought I would get used to the new life in America soon because my English was the best in my junior high school. However, I was wrong.

My new life in the United States was painful. I felt lonely among my new classmates because I could not share my interests with my peers. I missed my old Japanese life, and I wished I could go back to Japan. It made me so depressed when I saw pictures of my old friends on their school trip and at school festivals.  I felt so isolated from my peers both in the United States and Japan.

What cured my homesickness was meeting people who cared about the hardship of Japanese residents in the United States. Once a month, I joined a social gathering where Japanese and American people shared time together. It was called “Japanese Table Talk.” At Japanese Table Talk, Japanese people temporarily living in the U.S. ate dinner with local Americans.  Japanese housewives brought delicious foods from our home country. I felt I was in Japan at those gatherings. What surprised me most was that Japanese Table Talk was organized by a group of American volunteers in the community, not the Japanese members.

Thanks to the warm support I received from my host country, my homesickness was eased. If someone new needs help, I would like to help him or her because I understand the culture shock.

I am worried if Japanese society is ready to welcome people from overseas. In my opinion, we should welcome non-Japanese people as important members of a community, not just “workers.” I believe that Japanese residents should be more sympathetic to people who go through a hard time in Japan. If Japanese care about new neighbors, they will be adjusted to their new life in Japan, and they will be happier.

Karate, my Source of Health

By Kanon Yoshitake, University of Shimane

I had an opportunity to demonstrate karate at Windward Community College. Karate was created in Okinawa Prefecture between the 15th and 16th centuries as a unique martial art of self-defense in order to protect the Okinawans from outsiders.

It is a martial art that teaches people how to live properly. Mind, body, and technique are united in karate. Learning karate starts with a bow and ends with a bow. It aims at developing as a person who can respect others regardless of age and gender.

For me, karate is a stress relief and it is also a whole body exercise. I can keep mentally and physically healthy. I think people who practice karate learn to be good people. 

There are kata and kumite, both of which will be events at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Kata means practicing the form of karate movements as if you were fighting with a partner, and in competitions it is judged based on accuracy and technique. Kumite is an actual fight against an opponent. In kumite points are gained by blows and kicks to various parts of the body, and victory or defeat is decided by how many points you get. For example, you get 1 point for a mid-level punch to the opponent’s stomach and 3 points for a high-level kick to the opponent’s chin.

Dialects–Language to Connect People

By Seina Manabe, University of Shimane

Students from Shimane and Yamagata Prefectures made a joint presentation of Japanese dialects at Windward Community College in Honolulu, Hawaii, on December 12. While the University of Shimane is in the south and Yamagata University is in the north of Japan, our hometowns are scattered across Japan, so we were able to demonstrate the variety of Japanese dialects.

We decided to show simple Japanese expressions in local dialects across Japan such as “yes,”  “eat it,” “come again,” “let’s keep trying,” “I like you,” and “thank you.”

While the formal way of saying “yes” is “hai, ” we were amazed at the diversity of the more colloquial “u-n.” For example, in standard Japanese it is pronounced as “u-n,” which is also used in Ibaraki, Aichi, Ehime, and Kagawa Prefectures, but it is pronounced as “ja-no” in Hiroshima, “so-ge” in Shimane, “n-da” in Aomori, “n-da-zu” in Yamagata, and “n-da-cha” in Miyagai.

There is also a great diversity in how to say “thank you”:  “ari-gato” in Ibaraki, “anga-tono” in Hiroshima, “dan-dan” in Ehime and Shimane, “moke-dano” or “o-sho-na” in Yamagata, and “arigato-gozaisu” in Miyagi.

The endings of “come again” varied a lot too: “matakitara-yokappe” in Ibaraki, “mata-korin” in Aichi, “mata-kite-kunnaiya” in Niigata, “matakin-chyaine” in Hiroshima, “mata-kimai” in Kagawa, “mata-oideya” in Ehime, “mata-kite-goshinai” in Shimane, “mata-kite-keroya” in Aomori, “mata-kitero” in Yamagata, and “mata-gozain” in Miyagi.

Everyone felt very shy when they said “I love you” in their local dialects because Japanese seldom express their emotions. The ending also varied from the standard expression of “suki-da.”

We did not know how to express  “gan-ba-ro,” a common Japanese phrase in English. It can be translated into English such as “let’s keep trying,” “keep at it,” “keep working,” “try harder,” or “never give up,” depending on the context. We hear this phrase very often when people encourage each other when facing challenges. Again the endings were all different in different dialects.

The presentation went very well and it seems the students at Windward Community College enjoyed listening to our demonstration. It is very difficult to fully convey the intimate and nostalgic feelings we have when we speak with dialects because the intonations of each dialect are very special. For example, in Aichi “thank you” is written as “arigato,” just the same as in standard Japanese, but the middle syllable is raised in the local dialect. Similarly, when saying “I love you” in the Aichi dialect, the “ra” sound in “dera-suki-yani,” must be elongated. Such fine nuances cannot be transcribed in writing.

We would like to thank Professor Swan for giving us this opportunity to introduce Japanese dialects to the Windward Community College students. Preparing for this presentation made us realize how important dialects are. We remembered sweet memories with grandma, grandpa, mom and dad, and old friends. Using dialects automatically connects us to our hometowns. We found that dialects formed our identities. We are very grateful for this opportunity.

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